La Plagne
Ski Resort

Even if you ignore its Paradiski link to Les Arcs, La Plagne has a big ski area just by itself: 11 different villages, about 225km of ski slopes, more than 60 lifts, a 3000m high glacier, two large high-altitude bowls, and plenty of treelined runs which become invaluable in bad weather. And there is skiing for everyone, no matter what their standard.

In the main bowls, beginners benefit from nursery slopes that are close to the villages and free to use. There is also a good choice of ski schools and a network of gentle blue runs that criss-cross the bowls and spill out over the top, providing easy routes down to most of the lower villages.

There are fewer red runs, but what they lack in quantity they make up for in quality: Combe, Inversens, Kamikaze, Sources, Emile Allais and Mont de La Guerre are all excellent reds.

Advanced skiers have scattered short, sharp black runs like Coqs, Morbleu and the top sections of Mio and Chiaupe. They can also ski from the top of the glacier down to Montchavin mostly on black runs, with a vertical drop of nearly 2,000m (6,600 ft). Strong skiers, however, should also spend at least one day off-piste with a guide, because Bellecote is one of the best freeride mountains in the Alps.

Of course, no ski area is perfect, and La Plagne’s has its faults. Its terrain has too many dull flat sections; the journey to the main bowls from Montchavin, Les Coches or Champagny en Vanoise involves far too many slow lifts; and the central pistes can get very crowded.

The 11 different villages vary hugely. At an elevation of 2050m, Belle Plagne, Plagne Villages and Plagne Soleil are convenient, attractive, high-altitude resorts. Plagne Aime 2000, Plagne Centre and Plagne Bellecote are similar in altitude and convenience but not nearly as attractive. They can be good value though.

Just below them is Plagne 1800, a sprawling chalet-dominated village, like a mini Meribel or Verbier, but without their expensive nightlife. Les Coches (1450m) is one notch down in elevation and looks but is more compact and has a nice family-friendly vibe.

At the bottom of the ski area are the traditional villages of Montchavin (1250m), Plagne Montalbert (1350m) and Champagny en Vanoise (1250m). None of them are unspoiled but they have all retained some of their rural character.

And finally, just one lift away from La Plagne’s ski area is Les Arcs. How often you visit this other half of Paradiski depends on your ability, keenness and where you’re staying in La Plagne, because the connecting cable car is easy to reach from Montchavin, Les Coches, Plagne Bellecote or Belle Plagne, but a long way from Montalbert or Champagny en Vanoise. Yet even if you never use it, just knowing it’s there reinforces a mindset of always having new slopes to discover – which is one hallmark of a world-class ski resort.