Baqueira Beret
Set high in the Val d’Aran, a Pyrenean valley that was once so remote and snowbound that it developed its own language and culture, Baqueira / Beret is Spain's premier ski resort, with lifts rising to over 2600m and runs for all standards from beginners to experts.
Baqueira Beret, usually referred to simply as ‘Baqueira’, is widely regarded as the best ski resort not just in Spain but across the Pyrenees. Soldeu and Pas de la Casa in Andorra might share a larger lift-linked ski area, and Grand Tourmalet in France might have a higher lift, but Baqueira’s range of terrain, long pistes, snow record, resort convenience, freeride potential, scenery, ambience, and the quality of its hotels and restaurants, make it the number one choice for most skiers, including Spain’s royal family who holiday here.
Such popularity comes at a price, and Baqueira is relatively expensive compared to other resorts in the Pyrenees, but it’s good value compared to the top resorts in the Alps. As a classic all-rounder with something for everyone, Baqueira is particularly suitable for a mixed group who want a ski holiday with a Spanish flavour and who like the idea of après ski in a tapas bar. And for those who want something very different, there is also the option of staying below Baqueira in one of the unspoilt Val d’Aran villages where stone-walled, slate-roofed houses huddle around ancient Romanesque churches and the locals still speak Aranese.
Baqueira is a medium-sized ski area (2273 hectares / 5617 acres) with three lift-linked sectors and over 165km of piste skiing plus a handful of official ungroomed freeride routes and off-piste terrain for stronger skiers. The lift system is generally efficient – mostly modern, detachable, high-speed chairlifts – and short lift lines, and the resort is generally snowsure from Christmas through to Easter.
Baqueira has 5km of nursery slopes for novices, a huge network of blue pistes for beginners and is an excellent resort for intermediates with more than 80% of runs designated blue or red. Advanced skiers have a choice of more than 15 black runs and ski routes (usually ungroomed) as well as good opportunities for freeriding between many pistes, steep off-piste itineraries for expert skiers and boarders, guided and backcountry skiing and even heliskiing.
Mountain restaurants, mostly near the lifts, include a choice of self-service and table service but these are not one of the resort’s best features. Baqueira offers a choice of ski schools, employing over 300 accredited instructors and guides, and centrally-managed ski rental outlets.
Baqueira 1500 and Baqueira 1700 offer a good selection of accommodation including luxury 5-star hotels and there is cheaper accommodation nearby in Val d’Aran villages. Both are typical purpose-built, high-altitude resorts that prioritise convenience over charm. Overall, Baqueira 1700 is slightly more attractive with better views and Baqueira 1500 offers more bars and restaurants. Alternatively, you can stay lower down in one of 30 or so Val d’Aran villages along the route from the French border to Baqueira. Arties, about a 15-20-minute drive from the Baqueira lifts, is probably the most scenic, with stunning mountain views and lots of bars and restaurants.
Getting to Baqueira Beret is easy via the nearest airport Toulouse in southwest France (2 hours 15 minutes) or Barcelona (3 hours 45 minutes). Both airports are well-served by several major airlines.
Baqueira/Beret Pros & Cons
+ Good mix of runs for all standards;
+ Big enough ski area for most skiers;
+ Excellent off-piste and freeriding;
+ Inexpensive compared to top Alpine resorts;
+ Appealing Spanish food, drink and ambience;
+ No lift queues on normal weekdays;
+ Good lift and piste links between sectors;
+ Option of staying in charming Val d’Aran villages.
– No free ski bus between Baqueira, Beret and Bonaigua;
– Traffic jams and lift queues at peak times on weekends;
– Beginners need a full lift pass or a car/taxi to get to Beret;
– Too many long drag lifts and T-bars.
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