Champery
Champery is one of the oldest, and prettiest, Swiss ski resorts. Part of the large but low lying Portes du Soleil ski area, it appeals to skiers who value charm and character above ski-in, ski-out convenience.
Nestled at the base of the Dents du Midi and close to the equally scenic Dents Blanches, Champery is more famous for its “chocolate box” looks than its pistes. One reason for this is that there are no ski slopes within easy walking distance: instead, skiers commute to and from the skiing at Planachaux, via either Champery’s iconic cable car or the fast chairlift at Grand Paradis which is a short free bus ride away. Whilst this is slightly inconvenient (and expensive for first-time skiers who have to buy a lift pass just to access nursery slopes) it helps preserve an attractive, relaxed, village-like ambience which is very different from that of a purpose-built ski resort.
At Planachaux skiers and boarders will find a small ski area, with something for everyone from beginners to advanced and experts who can test themselves on the infamous Swiss Wall. And there’s more of the same on the other side of the Croix de Culet at Les Crosets, a tiny modern resort clustered around a crossroads in the lift system that’s easily reached from Champery, on blue or red pistes.
The combined Champery-Les Crosets ski area will keep most skiers busy for a couple of days, but it’s just a small fraction of the huge Portes du Soleil ski domain. From the top lifts at Champery, you can ski into Avoriaz in France and then onto Morzine, Chatel or Les Gets. Alternatively, you can stick to the Swiss side and meander northwards through Champoussin to Morgins. In total, there are nearly 200 lifts and 300 pistes, and that should be more than enough for anyone.
Champery’s apres-ski scene is mostly hotel-based and tends to be quiet rather than raucous. There are several excellent restaurants and a few late-night clubs and bars. Champery also offers a wider range of activities for non-skiers than most ski resorts, and its quick transfers from Geneva airport make it a good destination for a short break.
Although Champery’s skiing is high by Portes du Soleil standards, it’s all below 2300m and much of it faces south-east. Therefore it’s not snowsure, so booking an early or late season ski holiday well in advance is risky.
Champery Strengths & Weaknesses
+ A pretty resort in a scenic setting
+ Part of the huge Portes du Soleil area
+ Easy to reach / “Weekend-able”
– Too low to be snowsure
– No runs back to the resort
– Poor choice for beginners.
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